Everything You Need to Know Before Driving The Alaska-Canada Highway (the Alcan)

A comprehensive guide to driving to Alaska from the Lower-48, the best places to stop, where to stay, and what to do along the route. 

My boyfriend Nick and I have been working seasonally in Alaska for the past 4 years. He manages the guide operations for an upscale eco-lodge, and I guide 9-day hiking trips from the Kenai up to Denali. We feel very grateful to work in such a beautiful state. 

After two years of flying up to Alaska (2021 and 2022), we decided we wanted to switch things up and drive from the Lower-48. 

2023 was our first year driving up, and we drove again 2024. To my surprise, I discovered that I prefer the 55-hour drive to the 5-hour flight. Alaska isn’t an easy place to get to, and the road offers its own challenges. But the journey is iconic, wild, and fun. It’s all about embracing the unexpected, disconnecting the GPS, and following an old road map. 

Driving to Alaska is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I hope that everyone gets to do it at some point in their life. It’s impossible to comprehend the vastness and the beauty of the Northern landscape until you drive it. Or to understand what it feels like to be a pioneer until you are on the road driving miles upon miles. Expect snow-covered mountains, foraging fauna, patches of nothing, uncompromising wilderness, unpredictable weather, Canadian characters, cracks in your windshield, laughter, and limited services. The Alcan rarely lets you out of its rapture. 

A Thinhorn Mountain Sheep smiles for his photograph in the Yukon.

But, the open road can be intimidating. And the fear of driving remote, snowy roads with limited services and wild animals prevents many travelers from taking the leap. It’s normal to be a little nervous – but with proper planning and a little flexibility, you can 100% do it.

Below, I’ve compiled a comprehensive guide to driving from the lower 48 to Alaska. This guide is based on Nick and my travels from Colorado to Alaska in March and April of 2023 and 2024. We’ve driven many remote roads (including the Dalton Highway) and have some reasonably good ideas to share based on lessons we’ve learned the hard way. I’ve included our notes on what to pack, where to stay, the best places to stop, what to eat, and what to do along the route. I hope you find it helpful and would love to hear from you if you make the trip!

Our March 2024 Travel Path: Boulder, CO → Rawlins, WY —> Driggs, ID —> Great Falls, MT, —> Calgary, AB —> Canmore/Banff/Jasper, AB —> Ft. St. John, BC —> Liard Hot Springs, BC —> White Horse, YK —> Tok, AK —> Anchorage, AK

  • Departed Boulder, CO: March 17th, 2024

  • Arrived in Anchorage, CO: April 06, 2024*

  • Total Miles: 3,184 miles (plus some for side trips)

  • Total Spent on Gas: $594.00

  • Total Spent on Accommodations for 2 people 21 days*: $771.00

  • *Note our (Itinerary includes 11 days of driving, and another 10 days of housesitting/working remotely in Calgary to break up the drive and keep our day jobs)

Before I share our day-to-day drive recommendations, I’ll answer a few quick top-of-mind questions that might come up when researching the drive.

Exploring the Athabascan Glacier on the Drive.

Should I take the Alcan or the Cassiar Highway?: If you’ve been staring at a map, you might have noticed that there are two roads to get into Alaska from Canada. The standard route is the Alaska-Canada Highway, and the other route is the Cassiar Highway, which hugs the mountains in BC to the west. The Cassiar Highway is undoubtedly more beautiful, but it is also more remote and offers fewer services. If you are driving up to Alaska during the winter or spring months (October - May), take the Alcan. It’s the smarter choice, and it is still stunning. The Alcan has fuel stops and lodges that remain open in the winter. It also passes through Whitehorse (a large town in the Yukon with mechanics and proper shops). Nick and I take the Alcan when we head up north in the spring and then take the Cassiar south in the fall.

Tell me about the Alaska-Canada Highway: The Alaska-Canada Highway (also known as the Alcan) is a 1382-mile road that connects Dawson Creek, BC to Delta Junction, Alaska. It is an impressive engineering feat, and was once described as the largest and most difficult project since the Panama Canal. By my (eyeballed) estimates, the road is 97% paved. There are relatively few services along the road. Small lodges, mom and pop gas stations, and miles of winding roads dot the landscape. Bison, coyotes, moose, sheep, goats, and bears are all possible to see along the way. Cell-service is hit or miss, but the route does pass through the large town of Whitehorse, Yukon. The highlight of this route for me is taking a dip in the Liard Hot Springs (see below for details).

What Kind of Weather Can I Expect in March and April?: Anything. Truly. Anything. April of 2023 was our first time driving up. That year, we encountered several snow storms and came across very slippery conditions. We were slammed by snow so thick that it crusted and stuck to our tire wells (see photo below), and we also had to backtrack for gas after learning that a planned fuel stop was shut down during the storm. We learned a few expensive lessons that year (to be shared in greater detail below). This year we drove up three weeks earlier in March/Early April 2024 and our drive was the complete opposite. Clear roads, blue skies, and wildlife blessed us along the way. We still hit a few patches of snow and had to slow our travels down in certain spots, but overall it was very easy driving. In short, our two years of driving were very different. Prepare for snow, but don’t worry too much. I grew up in the midwest (Chicago & Michigan), and if you can drive those Midwestern roads in the winter, you can drive the Alcan. Just take it slow and fuel up more often - services are more limited on the Alcan.

Can I camp? Or do I need hotels?: The answer to this is that it depends on the time of the year. In March and April, you might be able to camp. It’s not impossible, but it’s more challenging. Most campgrounds open on May 1st. We tried to camp twice this year but the places where we wanted to camp (Liard Hot Springs and Eclipse Hot Springs) both had feet of snow on the ground and night time temperatures hovering around 10 degrees. It’s possible that you could get a warm season. It’s also possible to camp in 10 degree weather if you have the right gear, we just chose not to. Another good option if you want to save on hotel costs is to car camp. This is doable in March and April. There are plentttty of spots along the road for car camping, and many people do it. We would car camp if our car wasn’t packed to the gill with all of our gear. In the fall, we camp on the way back down the Cassiar.

Our car after a snowy night in Tok, Alaska. 2024.

How to Prepare for Your Trip:

  • Get your car checked before you leave: Just do it. We learned this lesson the hard way. Go to a reliable mechanic and tell them that you are planning to drive to Alaska (in cold, snowy conditions). Get your oil changed. Have your tires, breaks, lights, frame, battery etc. checked. I promise, it is much easier (and cheaper) to fix your car in the Lower-48 than it is to fix it along the way or even in Alaska, where parts are much harder to acquire. Make sure you have four-wheel drive and snow-capable tires (we’ve seen too many small cars off the side of the road). Also be sure you have jumper cables, enough windshield fluid, and perhaps a portable tire inflator just in case. Side Note: The only thing you don’t need to replace prior to the drive is your windshield (unless of course it’s unsafe to drive with). I can almost guarantee that you will get hit by a pebble/small rock or two along the drive (resulting in a cool-looking Alaskan windshield like ours).

  • Bring a shovel/ice scraper- If you are driving up in the spring, it’s imperative that you are prepared for snowy conditions. Pack a shovel and an ice-chipper (and keep them in an easily accessible location). It’s likely that you will have to chip snow out of your tires. Don’t ignore this step. Having ice in your wheel wells can lead to serious (and expensive problems). In 2023, we didn’t chip the snow out of our wheel wells, which resulted in imbalanced tires, a shaking car, and the need to have the tires rebalanced ($$$).

  • Pick up a copy of the Milepost, an Alaskan-specific road book, or at the very least, get a road map! You’ll want to have a physical map handy because cell-service can be spotty. And it’s just cooler.

  • Download offline versions of the maps: Cell/internet service is not always available while traveling north, and especially on the more remote portions of the Alcan. Apps like Maps.me allow you to download offline maps that can help you navigate off the grid. 

  • Download music & podcasts before you go - You won’t have service for large stretches of the drive (and you’ll be in Canada for most of the drive). Plan ahead and download what you need. When you are in Canada, Tim Hortons (or Timmys as the locals call it) will be your best friend for WIFI stops and coffee.

  • Pack extra water, food, blankets - You never know what can happen on the Alcan. We always pack a jug of water, extra food, a headlamp, toilet paper, and several warm blankets. You never know when a freak snowstorm or the urge to go could hit. It never hurts to have spare PB&J supplies as well because there are stretches of the drive with limited food options/services.

  • If you are planning on camping or hiking, bring bear spray - The bears are justttttt beginning to wake up in April — so it’s not unheard of to run into a recently awakened and hungry bear.

  • Consider bringing a gas tank - Many people carry extra gas with them just in case. During the winter months (Oct-April) fewer services are available on the road. Just because the map says there is gas ahead, doesn’t mean there is! Some fuel stops and lodges don’t open until late May. We learned this lesson the hard way our first year, when and started bringing a gas tank with us just in case. Even if you don’t bring a gas tank, fill up every chance you get (even if you are 3/4ths full). 

  • Pack Your Passport - You will have to cross the border twice! Make sure your passport is in good standing and that you bring it along. Also, make sure you plan ahead —- certain goods aren’t allowed in Canada and vise versa - so do your research ahead of time.

  • Organize your gear: Traveling with a car full of gear can be overwhelming and can easily turn into a state of disarray. Pack only what you need and set up a system for where things go in the car. Everything should have a place. Items that need to be accessed frequently or that would help in an emergency should be easy to reach, and valuable items like skis or electronics should be covered by a blanket or hidden out of site.

  • Sitting all day is hard - plan to get some movement in: Sitting all day is the worst. Get some back support and plan to get some walking, hiking, or other activities along the way (your back, body, and bowels will thank you later). I like to do this pilates work out when I’m on the road and short on time.

  • Pack an old license plate — or something to contribute to the great Sign Post Forest! See DAY 08.

Day by Day - Recommendations and notes

Click the links below to expand each day of the drive. If you want to start at the Canadian border (rather than Boulder, CO where we started), zoom ahead to DAY 04.

View of the Tetons from our friend’s porch near Driggs, Idaho.

Liard Hot Springs, Provincial Park. Early April, 2024.

Liard Hot Springs Lodge. Early April 2024.

Stretch of highway North of Fort St. John. Note the windshield cracks. Trucks will inevitably kick small pebbles up at you - wear it as a badge of honor.

A bad wheel-well situation in 2023, that caused our tires to become imbalanced and the car to shake! Learn from us, and make sure you chip the snow out of your wheel wells frequently!

My favorite mug wall at Fox N’ Fireweed in Tok, Alaska

Long story short, the drive to Alaska is nothing short of amazing. It is rough, wild, and vast. I hope that this guide has been helpful, and I would love to hear about your adventures up to the Greatland.

In the meantime, I invite you to follow me on instagram @ckvanw and @clairekalinadesigns or to check out my fabric and wallpaper offerings on Spoonflower. I have a number of cool design projects in the works for Alaskan companies and am looking forward to another summer guiding trips up here.